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Whoosh Motorsports Shift Kit [Install and Review][PICTURE HEAVY]
- Thread starter pirite
- Start date
Ron had messaged me, said he had a shift kit coming out, then asked if i wanted to be a test subject.
I couldn't say no. From day one of owning my FiST the shifting always felt off, and coming from my SVT focus with an adjustable short throw i missed the clunk and quick snap of shifting I used to have.
Let me tell you, YOU NEED THIS KIT.
Do you want crisp, affirmative, solid feeling shifts? Then again, YOU NEED THIS KIT.
We have a Short Throw Adapter, Cable Bracket Bushings, and the Shifter Base Bushings
First off, lets take a look at these parts
The machining is worth way more than the cost.
Tolerances are better than most OEM parts.
Shifter base bushings:
Shifter cable bracket bushings:
Now for the install:
Here's all the tool required for the install:
1/4 inch ratchet
t25 torex
4mm alen
7mm
10mm
12mm - must be deep socket
10mm wrench, stubby makes it much easier as does it being a ratcheting wrench
One or two flat head screw drivers
Various 1/4 inch extensions
First off unplug your MAF sensor in the intake tube:
Use the torex to unbolt the top of your air box (if still stock) and use the 7mm to undo the clamp on the intake elbow tube.
You'll end up with a view like this which is probably all you'll actually need if all you're installing is the adapter:
This install is taking care of the whole kit, so we'll continue with removing the battery and the battery box and the ECU attached to the side.
Two 10mm nuts will get the battery hold down off, two more 10mm to remove the battery cables:
In the bottom of the battery box you'll see three bolts, 10mm again, get those out of there.
You may have enough room to just move the battery box out of the way with the ECU still attached, i went ahead and completely removed it.
One screw clip holds the cover on, remove that and that gets you to the ECU plugs. There's a locking tab that when depressed will have the grey lever pop out some. Continue moving the lever while also applying light steady pressure on the plug and she'll come right off.
That leaves you with a nice clean shot at the shifter cable bracket, along with the shifter arm to install the adapter.
The cable ends just pop off. Get a couple flat head screw drivers on either side of the cable end and with even light pressure pry.
The cables come out of the bracket by pulling on the locking right (seen in black and white) at the cable ends towards the front of the car. They have some pretty good spring tension on them and will fight to get em to move.
You'll have three 10mm bolts to remove to get the bracket out.
One to the left of the white collared shifter cable, on the the right of the black collared shifter cable, and one on the back of the bracket sideways by the block, this is the one where the wrench comes in handy.
Remove the bolts and the bracket comes right out.
There's going to be three bushings in the bracket, pop the metal sleeves out and pop the rubber bushings out.
Once you do that you can check out the AWESOME fit of the new aluminum bushings
Start with the bolt on the left of the white collared shifter cable. Put the bushing in, slide the bolt through then loosely start the bolt. Slide the bottom of the new bushing under the bracket, put the top part of the bushing on and start the bolt loosely for the bushing to the right of the black collared cable. Now the fun part, with the bolts loose in the other two, slide the bottom section of the bushing in the hole on the back of the bracket, hold it to the side to pinch the bushing in place, then slide the bolt into it with the other half of the bushing on the bolt.
Snug those guys up and you've got some awesome bushings installed.
Now lets move to the adapter.
Set the top part on top of the shifter arm
Slide the bottom section underneath and start two bolts by hand with the 4mm alen.
Now you're gonna want to get your friend here, Mr. Blue Threadlocker. Is this 100% needed, probably not, but i did it anyways.
Do that to the two bolts still out, remove the other two and apply to those as well. Use a cross tightening sequence.
You don't have to crank on 'em, just get them all nice and snug evenly.
Next is gonna be the ball mount for the cable end.
This guy i would apply threadlocker to even if you didn't to the other bolts.
Pick your desired amount of shift reduction 15% or 25% and install the ball into the proper hole, use that 12mm deep socket and snug 'er in.
Here's a shot of the super tight tolerances between the two shifter arms.
Now re-install all parts removed in reverse order and close your hood.
You've got a nice shortened and tighter shift feel.
BUT, if you want to improve that more, We have another step.
Those silly rubber bushings they had in the bracket? Yeah, your shifter base inside the car has those too, and they suck.
Get rid of them.
AND the best part. No, I didn't have to pull the entire center counsel out to do them!
Little less picture heavy on this part but I did what i could.
We're going to start by pulling out the center trim that's around the shifter and the HVAC controls.
A plastic trim tool make popping up the lower section cake, then pull towards yourself.
Undo the connectors on the back of the esc button and the interior lighting button.
Remove your shift knob. Just grab it and turn to the left.
The shifter boot will then slide right off along with the reverse lockout.
Now we're gonna remove the lower trim panels along the foot wells.
There's one plastic screw retainer on each one, the rear of it is held in place with plastic clips that the interior tool will again make easier.
Behind those panels on both sides you'll find an assortment of connectors.
Undo all of those to give you more access to the bushings in a couple steps.
With that done, remove the cables from their bracket, same manner as the ones under the hood, and remove the two screws with a T30 torex bit.
Now with some patience and the help of some various picks you can get the metal insert out, and the rubber bushings out.
Now some more patience and getting your fingers in where those connectors we undid were you can slide the lower section of the bushing in, set the top portion on and send those screws home.
The do thread into plastic so don't over torque them.
Slide the shifter cables back in, and re-assemble.
Biggest thing i noticed was making sure the reverse lockout is lined up correctly.
Here's a pic for reference.
And just like that. You've got the shift throw and feel this car should have had along with the ST badge!
Even if this is the ONLY mod you do to your car, it is beyond worth it.
If anyone has any question feel free to post them up, I have no problem responding.
The shift feel is improved greatly with a nice feel in the much shorter throw.
I couldn't say no. From day one of owning my FiST the shifting always felt off, and coming from my SVT focus with an adjustable short throw i missed the clunk and quick snap of shifting I used to have.
Let me tell you, YOU NEED THIS KIT.
Do you want crisp, affirmative, solid feeling shifts? Then again, YOU NEED THIS KIT.
We have a Short Throw Adapter, Cable Bracket Bushings, and the Shifter Base Bushings
First off, lets take a look at these parts
The machining is worth way more than the cost.
Tolerances are better than most OEM parts.
Shifter base bushings:
Shifter cable bracket bushings:
Now for the install:
Here's all the tool required for the install:
1/4 inch ratchet
t25 torex
4mm alen
7mm
10mm
12mm - must be deep socket
10mm wrench, stubby makes it much easier as does it being a ratcheting wrench
One or two flat head screw drivers
Various 1/4 inch extensions
First off unplug your MAF sensor in the intake tube:
Use the torex to unbolt the top of your air box (if still stock) and use the 7mm to undo the clamp on the intake elbow tube.
You'll end up with a view like this which is probably all you'll actually need if all you're installing is the adapter:
This install is taking care of the whole kit, so we'll continue with removing the battery and the battery box and the ECU attached to the side.
Two 10mm nuts will get the battery hold down off, two more 10mm to remove the battery cables:
In the bottom of the battery box you'll see three bolts, 10mm again, get those out of there.
You may have enough room to just move the battery box out of the way with the ECU still attached, i went ahead and completely removed it.
One screw clip holds the cover on, remove that and that gets you to the ECU plugs. There's a locking tab that when depressed will have the grey lever pop out some. Continue moving the lever while also applying light steady pressure on the plug and she'll come right off.
That leaves you with a nice clean shot at the shifter cable bracket, along with the shifter arm to install the adapter.
The cable ends just pop off. Get a couple flat head screw drivers on either side of the cable end and with even light pressure pry.
The cables come out of the bracket by pulling on the locking right (seen in black and white) at the cable ends towards the front of the car. They have some pretty good spring tension on them and will fight to get em to move.
You'll have three 10mm bolts to remove to get the bracket out.
One to the left of the white collared shifter cable, on the the right of the black collared shifter cable, and one on the back of the bracket sideways by the block, this is the one where the wrench comes in handy.
Remove the bolts and the bracket comes right out.
There's going to be three bushings in the bracket, pop the metal sleeves out and pop the rubber bushings out.
Once you do that you can check out the AWESOME fit of the new aluminum bushings
Start with the bolt on the left of the white collared shifter cable. Put the bushing in, slide the bolt through then loosely start the bolt. Slide the bottom of the new bushing under the bracket, put the top part of the bushing on and start the bolt loosely for the bushing to the right of the black collared cable. Now the fun part, with the bolts loose in the other two, slide the bottom section of the bushing in the hole on the back of the bracket, hold it to the side to pinch the bushing in place, then slide the bolt into it with the other half of the bushing on the bolt.
Snug those guys up and you've got some awesome bushings installed.
Now lets move to the adapter.
Set the top part on top of the shifter arm
Slide the bottom section underneath and start two bolts by hand with the 4mm alen.
Now you're gonna want to get your friend here, Mr. Blue Threadlocker. Is this 100% needed, probably not, but i did it anyways.
Do that to the two bolts still out, remove the other two and apply to those as well. Use a cross tightening sequence.
You don't have to crank on 'em, just get them all nice and snug evenly.
Next is gonna be the ball mount for the cable end.
This guy i would apply threadlocker to even if you didn't to the other bolts.
Pick your desired amount of shift reduction 15% or 25% and install the ball into the proper hole, use that 12mm deep socket and snug 'er in.
Here's a shot of the super tight tolerances between the two shifter arms.
Now re-install all parts removed in reverse order and close your hood.
You've got a nice shortened and tighter shift feel.
BUT, if you want to improve that more, We have another step.
Those silly rubber bushings they had in the bracket? Yeah, your shifter base inside the car has those too, and they suck.
Get rid of them.
AND the best part. No, I didn't have to pull the entire center counsel out to do them!
Little less picture heavy on this part but I did what i could.
We're going to start by pulling out the center trim that's around the shifter and the HVAC controls.
A plastic trim tool make popping up the lower section cake, then pull towards yourself.
Undo the connectors on the back of the esc button and the interior lighting button.
Remove your shift knob. Just grab it and turn to the left.
The shifter boot will then slide right off along with the reverse lockout.
Now we're gonna remove the lower trim panels along the foot wells.
There's one plastic screw retainer on each one, the rear of it is held in place with plastic clips that the interior tool will again make easier.
Behind those panels on both sides you'll find an assortment of connectors.
Undo all of those to give you more access to the bushings in a couple steps.
With that done, remove the cables from their bracket, same manner as the ones under the hood, and remove the two screws with a T30 torex bit.
Now with some patience and the help of some various picks you can get the metal insert out, and the rubber bushings out.
Now some more patience and getting your fingers in where those connectors we undid were you can slide the lower section of the bushing in, set the top portion on and send those screws home.
The do thread into plastic so don't over torque them.
Slide the shifter cables back in, and re-assemble.
Biggest thing i noticed was making sure the reverse lockout is lined up correctly.
Here's a pic for reference.
And just like that. You've got the shift throw and feel this car should have had along with the ST badge!
Even if this is the ONLY mod you do to your car, it is beyond worth it.
If anyone has any question feel free to post them up, I have no problem responding.
The shift feel is improved greatly with a nice feel in the much shorter throw.
Ron had messaged me, said he had a shift kit coming out, then asked if i wanted to be a test subject.
I couldn't say no. From day one of owning my FiST the shifting always felt off, and coming from my SVT focus with an adjustable short throw i missed the clunk and quick snap of shifting I used to have.
Let me tell you, YOU NEED THIS KIT.
Do you want crisp, affirmative, solid feeling shifts? Then again, YOU NEED THIS KIT.
We have a Short Throw Adapter, Cable Bracket Bushings, and the Shifter Base Bushings
First off, lets take a look at these parts
The machining is worth way more than the cost.
Tolerances are better than most OEM parts.
Shifter base bushings:
Shifter cable bracket bushings:
Now for the install:
Here's all the tool required for the install:
1/4 inch ratchet
t25 torex
4mm alen
7mm
10mm
12mm - must be deep socket
10mm wrench, stubby makes it much easier as does it being a ratcheting wrench
One or two flat head screw drivers
Various 1/4 inch extensions
First off unplug your MAF sensor in the intake tube:
Use the torex to unbolt the top of your air box (if still stock) and use the 7mm to undo the clamp on the intake elbow tube.
You'll end up with a view like this which is probably all you'll actually need if all you're installing is the adapter:
This install is taking care of the whole kit, so we'll continue with removing the battery and the battery box and the ECU attached to the side.
Two 10mm nuts will get the battery hold down off, two more 10mm to remove the battery cables:
In the bottom of the battery box you'll see three bolts, 10mm again, get those out of there.
You may have enough room to just move the battery box out of the way with the ECU still attached, i went ahead and completely removed it.
One screw clip holds the cover on, remove that and that gets you to the ECU plugs. There's a locking tab that when depressed will have the grey lever pop out some. Continue moving the lever while also applying light steady pressure on the plug and she'll come right off.
That leaves you with a nice clean shot at the shifter cable bracket, along with the shifter arm to install the adapter.
The cable ends just pop off. Get a couple flat head screw drivers on either side of the cable end and with even light pressure pry.
The cables come out of the bracket by pulling on the locking right (seen in black and white) at the cable ends towards the front of the car. They have some pretty good spring tension on them and will fight to get em to move.
You'll have three 10mm bolts to remove to get the bracket out.
One to the left of the white collared shifter cable, on the the right of the black collared shifter cable, and one on the back of the bracket sideways by the block, this is the one where the wrench comes in handy.
Remove the bolts and the bracket comes right out.
There's going to be three bushings in the bracket, pop the metal sleeves out and pop the rubber bushings out.
Once you do that you can check out the AWESOME fit of the new aluminum bushings
Start with the bolt on the left of the white collared shifter cable. Put the bushing in, slide the bolt through then loosely start the bolt. Slide the bottom of the new bushing under the bracket, put the top part of the bushing on and start the bolt loosely for the bushing to the right of the black collared cable. Now the fun part, with the bolts loose in the other two, slide the bottom section of the bushing in the hole on the back of the bracket, hold it to the side to pinch the bushing in place, then slide the bolt into it with the other half of the bushing on the bolt.
Snug those guys up and you've got some awesome bushings installed.
Now lets move to the adapter.
Set the top part on top of the shifter arm
Slide the bottom section underneath and start two bolts by hand with the 4mm alen.
Now you're gonna want to get your friend here, Mr. Blue Threadlocker. Is this 100% needed, probably not, but i did it anyways.
Do that to the two bolts still out, remove the other two and apply to those as well. Use a cross tightening sequence.
You don't have to crank on 'em, just get them all nice and snug evenly.
Next is gonna be the ball mount for the cable end.
This guy i would apply threadlocker to even if you didn't to the other bolts.
Pick your desired amount of shift reduction 15% or 25% and install the ball into the proper hole, use that 12mm deep socket and snug 'er in.
Here's a shot of the super tight tolerances between the two shifter arms.
Now re-install all parts removed in reverse order and close your hood.
You've got a nice shortened and tighter shift feel.
BUT, if you want to improve that more, We have another step.
Those silly rubber bushings they had in the bracket? Yeah, your shifter base inside the car has those too, and they suck.
Get rid of them.
AND the best part. No, I didn't have to pull the entire center counsel out to do them!
Little less picture heavy on this part but I did what i could.
We're going to start by pulling out the center trim that's around the shifter and the HVAC controls.
A plastic trim tool make popping up the lower section cake, then pull towards yourself.
Undo the connectors on the back of the esc button and the interior lighting button.
Remove your shift knob. Just grab it and turn to the left.
The shifter boot will then slide right off along with the reverse lockout.
Now we're gonna remove the lower trim panels along the foot wells.
There's one plastic screw retainer on each one, the rear of it is held in place with plastic clips that the interior tool will again make easier.
Behind those panels on both sides you'll find an assortment of connectors.
Undo all of those to give you more access to the bushings in a couple steps.
With that done, remove the cables from their bracket, same manner as the ones under the hood, and remove the two screws with a T30 torex bit.
Now with some patience and the help of some various picks you can get the metal insert out, and the rubber bushings out.
Now some more patience and getting your fingers in where those connectors we undid were you can slide the lower section of the bushing in, set the top portion on and send those screws home.
The do thread into plastic so don't over torque them.
Slide the shifter cables back in, and re-assemble.
Biggest thing i noticed was making sure the reverse lockout is lined up correctly.
Here's a pic for reference.
And just like that. You've got the shift throw and feel this car should have had along with the ST badge!
Even if this is the ONLY mod you do to your car, it is beyond worth it.
If anyone has any question feel free to post them up, I have no problem responding.
The shift feel is improved greatly with a nice feel in the much shorter throw.
I couldn't say no. From day one of owning my FiST the shifting always felt off, and coming from my SVT focus with an adjustable short throw i missed the clunk and quick snap of shifting I used to have.
Let me tell you, YOU NEED THIS KIT.
Do you want crisp, affirmative, solid feeling shifts? Then again, YOU NEED THIS KIT.
We have a Short Throw Adapter, Cable Bracket Bushings, and the Shifter Base Bushings
First off, lets take a look at these parts
The machining is worth way more than the cost.
Tolerances are better than most OEM parts.
Shifter base bushings:
Shifter cable bracket bushings:
Now for the install:
Here's all the tool required for the install:
1/4 inch ratchet
t25 torex
4mm alen
7mm
10mm
12mm - must be deep socket
10mm wrench, stubby makes it much easier as does it being a ratcheting wrench
One or two flat head screw drivers
Various 1/4 inch extensions
First off unplug your MAF sensor in the intake tube:
Use the torex to unbolt the top of your air box (if still stock) and use the 7mm to undo the clamp on the intake elbow tube.
You'll end up with a view like this which is probably all you'll actually need if all you're installing is the adapter:
This install is taking care of the whole kit, so we'll continue with removing the battery and the battery box and the ECU attached to the side.
Two 10mm nuts will get the battery hold down off, two more 10mm to remove the battery cables:
In the bottom of the battery box you'll see three bolts, 10mm again, get those out of there.
You may have enough room to just move the battery box out of the way with the ECU still attached, i went ahead and completely removed it.
One screw clip holds the cover on, remove that and that gets you to the ECU plugs. There's a locking tab that when depressed will have the grey lever pop out some. Continue moving the lever while also applying light steady pressure on the plug and she'll come right off.
That leaves you with a nice clean shot at the shifter cable bracket, along with the shifter arm to install the adapter.
The cable ends just pop off. Get a couple flat head screw drivers on either side of the cable end and with even light pressure pry.
The cables come out of the bracket by pulling on the locking right (seen in black and white) at the cable ends towards the front of the car. They have some pretty good spring tension on them and will fight to get em to move.
You'll have three 10mm bolts to remove to get the bracket out.
One to the left of the white collared shifter cable, on the the right of the black collared shifter cable, and one on the back of the bracket sideways by the block, this is the one where the wrench comes in handy.
Remove the bolts and the bracket comes right out.
There's going to be three bushings in the bracket, pop the metal sleeves out and pop the rubber bushings out.
Once you do that you can check out the AWESOME fit of the new aluminum bushings
Start with the bolt on the left of the white collared shifter cable. Put the bushing in, slide the bolt through then loosely start the bolt. Slide the bottom of the new bushing under the bracket, put the top part of the bushing on and start the bolt loosely for the bushing to the right of the black collared cable. Now the fun part, with the bolts loose in the other two, slide the bottom section of the bushing in the hole on the back of the bracket, hold it to the side to pinch the bushing in place, then slide the bolt into it with the other half of the bushing on the bolt.
Snug those guys up and you've got some awesome bushings installed.
Now lets move to the adapter.
Set the top part on top of the shifter arm
Slide the bottom section underneath and start two bolts by hand with the 4mm alen.
Now you're gonna want to get your friend here, Mr. Blue Threadlocker. Is this 100% needed, probably not, but i did it anyways.
Do that to the two bolts still out, remove the other two and apply to those as well. Use a cross tightening sequence.
You don't have to crank on 'em, just get them all nice and snug evenly.
Next is gonna be the ball mount for the cable end.
This guy i would apply threadlocker to even if you didn't to the other bolts.
Pick your desired amount of shift reduction 15% or 25% and install the ball into the proper hole, use that 12mm deep socket and snug 'er in.
Here's a shot of the super tight tolerances between the two shifter arms.
Now re-install all parts removed in reverse order and close your hood.
You've got a nice shortened and tighter shift feel.
BUT, if you want to improve that more, We have another step.
Those silly rubber bushings they had in the bracket? Yeah, your shifter base inside the car has those too, and they suck.
Get rid of them.
AND the best part. No, I didn't have to pull the entire center counsel out to do them!
Little less picture heavy on this part but I did what i could.
We're going to start by pulling out the center trim that's around the shifter and the HVAC controls.
A plastic trim tool make popping up the lower section cake, then pull towards yourself.
Undo the connectors on the back of the esc button and the interior lighting button.
Remove your shift knob. Just grab it and turn to the left.
The shifter boot will then slide right off along with the reverse lockout.
Now we're gonna remove the lower trim panels along the foot wells.
There's one plastic screw retainer on each one, the rear of it is held in place with plastic clips that the interior tool will again make easier.
Behind those panels on both sides you'll find an assortment of connectors.
Undo all of those to give you more access to the bushings in a couple steps.
With that done, remove the cables from their bracket, same manner as the ones under the hood, and remove the two screws with a T30 torex bit.
Now with some patience and the help of some various picks you can get the metal insert out, and the rubber bushings out.
Now some more patience and getting your fingers in where those connectors we undid were you can slide the lower section of the bushing in, set the top portion on and send those screws home.
The do thread into plastic so don't over torque them.
Slide the shifter cables back in, and re-assemble.
Biggest thing i noticed was making sure the reverse lockout is lined up correctly.
Here's a pic for reference.
And just like that. You've got the shift throw and feel this car should have had along with the ST badge!
Even if this is the ONLY mod you do to your car, it is beyond worth it.
If anyone has any question feel free to post them up, I have no problem responding.
The shift feel is improved greatly with a nice feel in the much shorter throw.
No I just undid enough of the consul at the rear to be able to lift the shift lever boot out and did the install thru the shift lever boot opening. My problem was I had both the inner and outer consul come apart on me and I had one hell of a time getting the two of them back together. I hate removing interior panels, I'm always afraid of breaking them. doing either set of bushings wasn't bad at all, just the panels were a p.i.t.a.
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