New Vendor, lots of ideas, need your inputs as well:)

[RAAMaudio]

I just became a vendor and have some great ideas in store for your great cars

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You can Google up RAAMaudio and RAAMmat and see I have been in business many years with tens of thousands of happy fellow enthusiast customers around the world, taking care of you comes first and foremost always.

And, I am open to suggestions, I will look into anything you wish that is reasonable to offer as well as for the best prices possible, my own products, group buys on other products, etc...

I am retired twice so this is more for the fun of it and helping you out with somethings not offered or at a better deal, I need to keep this as simple as possible as again I am "retired" so please keep that in mind

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1) I have researched quite a bit but will continue to work towards a more cost effective back up camera kit.

2) Audio interface, I have already talked to major manufacturers but will keep in contact with the end goal an interface module to change out the HU to aftermarket, and better than stock that would also allow easy low cost back up cameras.

3) Transaxle mount insert, this is a fairly easy project, the stock mount allows far to much movement. I have a custom low weight mount in my car that works great but my battery is in the rear, for those with the battery in the stock location you would want an insert.

4) Custom audio packages, looking into sub, amp, speakers, wiring kit, deadening with a few options, I still own most of my sound deadening/audio company so this is pretty easy as far as sourcing products, just need a bit of time to work out the packages. I only make simple small parts as needed, some I might have to farm out to qualified people to build for me so let me know if interested.

A) Underseat sub, not much room but I will take a look, we built a few hundred units for an earlier version of the STI/WRX/Forester with a full size 10" sub that only weighed 14lbs.

B) I am looking into a high end, high output, moderate weight and cost, 12" sub that only needs .5 cubes, thanks to TaylorFade for bringing it to my attention It would be done with a with a spare tire flip to sit inside it so not taking up any space, just have to find a spot for the jack. The amps are really little, not much weight, total amp, sub, enclosure, might be under 20lbs and kick butt with audiophile quality and more than enough output

5) Group buys, I can access most anything but most drop shipped parts have a very low margin, I will have to work out some deals the best I can.

A) Morimoto Projector HID conversion kits, LED fog lights, other bulbs, etc....10 orders, 10%, 15 orders 15%, 20 orders, 20% dropped shipped to you. I am working out the details with the supplier now and exploring offering custom completed drop in headlights.

B) If enough serious interest I can look into some low weight roll formed very good cost wheels, 15x8, 17x8, etc....

C) More to come and send my your ideas

NOTE: The list above are not absolutes, I will adjust plans as I go, as you want things, the more that are interested the more I will develop things in the areas most viable for us all.

Thanks, have a great New Year!
Rick
President
RAAMaudio Inc

 

[alf45]

Good luck.

 

[CanadianST]

I'm sure you'll do great!

The custom intercooler on my car is a product of Rick's hard work and i absolutley love it, great work, communication, and goes above and beyond to make sure you get exactly what you want.

 

[SpooledUpST]

Fender flares!!! I'm not sure who to talk to about that and it's not fair that FoST guys have them available but we don't. I would love to see some wider Fiestas.

 

[FistSt215]

Projector headlights so I can run a hid kit that won't cost over 500 bucks

 

[airjor13]

Second Projector / HID solutions...and catch can!

 

[PCA-1]

Very cool.

 

[D1JL]

Rick,
You need to work on the re-machining of the rear hub carriers.
To provide the negative 2 degrees of camber we need.



Dave

 

[MOFiST]

Awesome Rick. I'm especially interested to see the audio and deadening solutions you come up with.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Thanks for the interest, compliments, suggestions, support, very nice indeed

I wanted to address everything asked for so far, if any single item is of interest please just skip to it, once decided upon to pursure them I will start a thread on each individually so easier to follow along and be a part of.

Some things I simply cannot do for various reasons so I will list them and give an explanation, I would love to make a ton of parts but then I would no longer be "retired" and some are not in the realm of what I want to get involved in and some I have already helped other companies get going on, more in the works.

Anything I have a + sign in front of can be done by me but I need help in getting enough members interested to make it viable, if you want it help me make it happen because I really want to help you all get what you want, need, etc....

If many readily available parts are already made I would not undertake doing the same thing unless very specific advantages to something I could do better, I am only interested in making great parts, the best prices, etc.....

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-Fender Flares, simply to time consuming, it is a big process to design, then have them made, make everyone as happy as possible and the install on the rear for real flares would require cutting the outside fender lip and the wheel well and welding in a section in the gap, not many will do that. Sorry, cannot make them

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+Projector headlight kits, easy, great ones available, I can just do a Group Buy on them, unfortunately no easy way to get our lights apart but once apart pretty easy install.

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-Manufactured Projector lights, it would take a really big order to get this done and take considerable time and funds requiring a large Group Buy and everyone's funds tied up for a long time, not something many nor I would want to do. I will look into it but might not find a viable way to offer these, if I did it they would only be of the best quality I could find of course.

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-Catch Can, having already modified one from a Vette to work and it does, then seeing all the problems with deposits on the valves I bought the top model Mishimoto and there is a reason it is a bit costly but it is worth it, most highly recommended. I can look into a Group Buy but honestly the deal on Amazon, Ebay, etc....would probably make it difficult to save any more on them. I did not look into the $155 retail, around $115 street price, MMBCC-MSTWO-BK, OCC, perhaps somebody has tried one here or another site. I bought the top one, $325 retail, around $230 street price, MMBCC-UNI, OCC, one look inside and it just looks like it will the best job. Considering the issue at hand and all the other more expensive mods we do, best to just get a very good can and be done with it.

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-+, Rear Camber Correction, using shims or machined rear knuckles to go to -2 rear camber, which I most highly recommend and have on my car(ended up -1.9 but close enough) Major issue to consider, using either method will cause the bolts to be at an angle causing undue stress on them which could lead to a catastrophic failure. Solution, use a shim on the inside of the axle mounting flange to allow the bolt heads to sit flat against it. More issues, the holes in the flange would still be at the wrong angle, not easy to make exactly right but a simpler solution could be to use a stepped drill bit, marked for depth, drill through but not fully, 90-95% or so, leaving the exit hole the stock size. This would keep the bolts(ARP) lined up when installing the shims and allow them to fit at a bit of an angle.

Shims are better in one way than changing the angle on the knuckle, buy the shims once, if a knuckle ever needs replaced, just buy one, it does not have to be machined to work.

This does not address the ABS sensor or locating pin on the axle but those could be addressed in some way I am sure.

+I would need 10 people to commit to this, I have a shop that will make the parts, inner and outer shims, last quote I got was $80 a pair just for outer ones but both are needed, it might be $150-160 or more plus bolts, and perhaps some added cost to deal with the ABS sensor.

This is the simplest solution I can think of for a save way to do this. on my car it was cut and reweld the axle flanges and a huge project few would do. The other solution is the none ST rear axle, it is expensive and also more flexible, I have not verified the results of bolting one to the car but I know Team O'Neal uses them on the full race rally cars they build.

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+Audio, I can do some things with my wholesale accounts for raw speakers, install parts, etc..For name brand gear I have to work with my current manufacturer, Arc Audio, to see if they will license me for audio packages like I made for C5 and C6 Vettes. I used Image Dynamics and another brand at times as well for some of the speakers. I am also waiting for a whole new line of gear in development I am sure to be allowed to ship as parts of a package deal. In order to ship the quality brands I would only use I have to do so with parts I make for the specific car. I will be looking into this after the first of the year.

+Sound Deadening, I already what truly is the best quality brand at the best prices made and have for 15 years, RAAMmat BXT II is as good as every needed, 100% success rate in staying on, but the key is we do not need a ton of it as some would have us believe. I have a vehicle fitment guide and how to guide on my site, new site coming out soon, RAAMaudio.com and package deals. Using RAAMmat and PS Ensolite and a bit of acoustical foam I will recommend and likely start carrying you can do a very good job for a very reasonable price. My best value for the quality, lower markup, package deals and then 10% off occasional sales make it as low as I can go in pricing but even at retail it is still the best for the money, at the package and 10% off, a very very good deal

I will work with my business manager to see if he will allow the discount to always apply to the site members here, if other owners want to get the deal they will have to be members of this site.

INSTALL on these cars, some of has been done on my car and another one, I am gathering pictures and will write up a specific guide for us, in the meantime the HOW TO on the site covers most of the basics, we have a bit more issue on the rear hatch and different design doors, they are actually a bit easier to deal with in some ways, a bit more difficult in others.

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Sorry for such a long post but I want to make sure you know just where I am on each and everything you are interested in.

Have a wonderful, fruitful and happy New Year
Rick

 

[Hijinx]

We need the "Ricks Cold Air Intake," complete with keg.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Rear "Wing" ideas, I am pursuing this on my own car for my track needs and if enough interest I might be able to offer something for others.

"Wing" it is not a wing, it is a spoiler but can be called other names as well, just using the term wing as more well known that way.

I have already discussed the stock wing in person with a real race shop manager that deals with dozens of race cars, prior to the Ford shop at MMP he ran the Audi race shop and is well experienced in dealing with aerodynamic issues. Anything I do will absolutely be performance first and foremost.

1)Improve stock wing with smooth top plate and wicker bill, wing left in stock location, improvement would not be dramatic. I would use a sheet of 1/8" ABS plastic as cheap, strong, moldable with a heat gun, etc....

2)Improve stock wing mounted on risers some of you already are using. Smooth top plate sealing gap at front of wing caused by risers, sealing holes in the rest of the wing, add wicker bill (Guerney flap) Possibly side panels to seal there as well. The reason for sealing it is the stock element is not a wing and not designed to have air flow under it, highly likely using risers without sealing it up is creating drag. possibly even lift, unstability at very high speed, etc.....finding the exact effects would take wind tunnel testing or at least yarn and video work to get an idea of what is really happening. It is possible there is little effect from the risers alone but that is something I choose to not leave to chance.

3)Use stock wing as is or sealed and mount a real wing above it, this gets more complicated and expensive but a true wing can be used.

4)Cut the center out of the stock wing and make vertical sections to mount to the sides where cut out to mount a real wing there, either minimal as in 38" wide, it would require a long cord length and likely thick center to create enough downforce but could be low profile. There would probably be a need to make a section for the hatch where the wing area was cut out.

5)Cut out center as above but attache a full wing to the vertical sections added on.

I have a stock wing here to work out my ideas on, I might buy one more so I can take my design ideas to the track to test in the spring.

Once testing is done if enough people wanted one of the solutions it could be offered in kit form, fully finished would require quite a few more orders, etc....if not enough interest I will just post what I have done and anybody that wants to use the ideas will be free to do so.

Have a great day
Rick

 

[RAAMaudio]

Cold Air Intake, RAAMparts stye.

That is pretty easy in some aspects but the battery has to go to the rear of the car. getting the hose to the grill takes some pretty serious effort to say the least but it could be routed to the opening under the headlight, lots of cooler air there.

You could by the keg, enjoy the beer, open it up, install the air flilter I used, AEM dry, or another one of your choice that fit.

A pretty reasonable cost full kit can be made, if you do the keg part much easier and worth the savings

As in all parts, I would have to have a minimum number wanted to pursue it, if not then the info is free to all to DIY the whole thing.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I do not need to run a business, I have a very nice retirement income. I just love doing this stuff and not quite ready for full retirement, to much time on my hands, to many microbrews. I need to be busier, there are far easier ways to make money than doing this but they are not fun to me, this is

 

[RAAMaudio]

Seat Heater variable temp controller.

I have been looking at PWM controllers, they basically switch the DC voltage on and off at a variable rate to control the current flow to the heating elements and thus do not waste a bunch of energy as heat like a rheostat would and much smaller, less weight, etc....

When I find the right solution I will make them available as a kit or just let you know where to find them and how to use them.

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Shifter base raising.

Up to 2.75"
Very solid results
Shift throws stay same length
Stock and any after market knob fit with stock reverse lockout
No gaps, etc....

A very simple low cost solution using coupling nuts, bolts, washers and spacers. Remove top and side trim from console, unbolt shifter base and a bracket in front of it with a sensor on it, lift shifter base, add spacers, washers and coupling nuts, use new bolts the length and with spacers to match, washers, bolt it back down.

My setup was done the hard way with a custom section to split the two parts of the base and it was not tall enough so I came up with raising the whole base from the bottom, wish I had done so the first time!

The stock shifter boot is a tight fit if go full height but still works, you could get a custom one made slightly taller if you wished.

I can make these a low cost kit or just post the parts and the directions above, DIY guide not really even needed as a pretty simple job but if I make a kit I will make a simple guide.

 

[Tex ST-AR]

How about a group buy on a drop in fit aluminum radiator. If you can come up with this at a relatively reasonable price I'm in.

 

[Sekred]

I have a interest in the rear hub idea but as you mentioned it needs to be done correctly- re mounting bolts.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Drop in radiator.

At first I thought I cannot do it, my car is to modded with the custom fit Mishomoto radiator and nothing to go off of.

Then I though, just take measurements off the stock radiator and have one made with a thicker core, duh!

I will call around after I return from a road trip in a couple of weeks, I am leaving before I would be able to get it going and will not have my car or a radiator there to work from.

I would need a local car here to test the fitment on once a prototype was done.

This would be in smaller batches, like 10 units, US made, not going to be cheap but what if we could do it for say $500-600?

Of course I would do my best to make the price as low as possible and would not stick a bit markup on them, drop shipping from where made to help save some as well and it would be a GB but once the design was done that should be pretty easy to setup.

To help save some money it could be made to use the factory fan and shroud, you can open it up to your wishes or like mine I just use the fan and the "arms" I cut loose from the rest of the shroud, it was a bit of effort but came out great.

A good aftermarket fan probably weighs a bit less though.

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Rear hubs.

I think it best to have inner and outer shims made instead of modding the hubs, the parts would be opposites of each other so they might not be to hard to setup for the CNC work.

One great aspect is you can do the 4x100 conversion and with some fender messaging can run 15x9 track wheels

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I am working on an idea for a poll to see what is wanted the most often and it would show all the ideas we have for parts and group buys. One guy cannot do all this at the same time so we need to prioritize and you get to help work that out

 

[westcoaST]

I've tried both of the Mishimoto catch cans, and would recommend the more expensive one, along with a clear, wire reinforced 5/8" dia. Hose. Cost: $20.00, add in a Rockauto replacement PCV hose for about $9.00. This is about a plug and play as possible. All part lists are on my build. Drill and thread a hole in the strut tower to mount the OCC.

 

[D1JL]

Please put me on the list for the rear camber shims.

Another item that I am sure you can master is a front tow hook.

Track days will be coming up soon.





Dave