2016+ Fiesta ST Evap Purge P144C check engine light "FIX"

[ron@whoosh]

I was going to ask if the barbs on the UPR check valve were those sharp, one way, 'push lock', impossible to get out without cutting the hose open type, since you had no clamps on the original versions.

These look SO good, I am almost tempted to get one even though I have no plans (even in the future) on going to an aftermarket intake.

the check valves are a bit larger than the quick connector fittings so the clamps aren't really needed but for consistency purposes, I made the change
the red caps were changed for fun only, no other reason lol

 

[PIPLUP]

I have a Mishimoto intake hose and the one connector won't fit all the way on the pcv part on the pipe?

 

[ron@whoosh]

I have a Mishimoto intake hose and the one connector won't fit all the way on the pcv part on the pipe?

you may have to trim back some of the silicone for the quick connector to "click" into place
the fastest way to get a hold of me is emailing through the site or calling direct 610-334-2158

 

[spoon]

Wow cool, just saw this!

Can we see a photo or two of this installed? I'd like to make sure it doesn't look like some obvious "rigging" going on in my engine bay. Thanks for the work man! Looking forward to ordering mine.

 

[ron@whoosh]

Wow cool, just saw this!

Can we see a photo or two of this installed? I'd like to make sure it doesn't look like some obvious "rigging" going on in my engine bay. Thanks for the work man! Looking forward to ordering mine.

there is no rigging
it's one connection from the intake tube to the evap line
you're actually deleting one line by capping the pressure reference at the intercooler pipe (the quick connector in the kit with a vacuum cap)
It's a cleaner look than stock in my opinion

This is the prototype kit installed on my 2016 FIST using a 2014-2015 Mountune induction hose, as you can see 1 connection from the hose to the evap line "T"
then in pic 2 a cap off on the intercooler pipe located deep in the engine bay below the radiator hose

 

[blakewillingham]

Is capping off that line going to effect anything? What is the purpose for that line anyway?

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[ron@whoosh]

Is capping off that line going to effect anything? What is the purpose for that line anyway?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

yes it is going to affect something - no check engine light
If I told you how many of these kits were out there right now being used you probably wouldn't believe me lol

 

[jm0bius]

there is no rigging
it's one connection from the intake tube to the evap line
you're actually deleting one line by capping the pressure reference at the intercooler pipe (the quick connector in the kit with a vacuum cap)
It's a cleaner look than stock in my opinion

This is the prototype kit installed on my 2016 FIST using a 2014-2015 Mountune induction hose, as you can see 1 connection from the hose to the evap line "T"
then in pic 2 a cap off on the intercooler pipe located deep in the engine bay below the radiator hose

Cool man, thanks for the pic. I have a 2016 FiST that just started throwing the P144C yesterday. I'm running boomba sound symposer delete, CFM breather and a MAPerformance intake. Code appeared as CEL 2nd startup after I installed the CFM valve breather... but I suspect the MAPerformance adapter to be the culprit on my intake as no one seems to be correlating the CFM breather with the code. Maybe it is a cumulative effect of adding parts onto the car IDK... but I could have been storing up "Pending" codes for the 4+ weeks I ran the MAP intake who knows. I ordered your adapter fix this morning so we will see how that goes - will also contact MAP to see if they have an updated version of that adapter piece that you mentioned... The more adapters to test the merrier I suppose! Yours does look to be much higher quality than the one MAP provided so that is a plus.

Just a question - If this code were to keep popping should I be worried? Is it really that big of a deal that the EVAP check valve seeing issues? car seem to run fine regardless just wanted to make sure.

I will post updates on my instance of the P144C issue as parts come in and I start experimenting.

Appreciate the work,
Jm0bius

 

[MisSTrouble]

Cool man, thanks for the pic. I have a 2016 FiST that just started throwing the P144C yesterday. I'm running boomba sound symposer delete, CFM breather and a MAPerformance intake. Code appeared as CEL 2nd startup after I installed the CFM valve breather... but I suspect the MAPerformance adapter to be the culprit on my intake as no one seems to be correlating the CFM breather with the code. Maybe it is a cumulative effect of adding parts onto the car IDK... but I could have been storing up "Pending" codes for the 4+ weeks I ran the MAP intake who knows. I ordered your adapter fix this morning so we will see how that goes - will also contact MAP to see if they have an updated version of that adapter piece that you mentioned... The more adapters to test the merrier I suppose! Yours does look to be much higher quality than the one MAP provided so that is a plus.

Just a question - If this code were to keep popping should I be worried? Is it really that big of a deal that the EVAP check valve seeing issues? car seem to run fine regardless just wanted to make sure.

I will post updates on my instance of the P144C issue as parts come in and I start experimenting.

Appreciate the work,
Jm0bius

I have the exact same setup as you (MAP intake, CFM breather), and the reason you're throwing a code is because the crappy check valve that MAP sent you is sticking closed. I did this fix using a quality check valve and have had zero problems since. As to whether the code will affect anything, the short answer is no. You're not gonna build up pressure or anything, doubly so with the CFM vent, so don't worry. Just reset your KAM in your AP and all is well.

 

[jm0bius]

Cool that is all good to know... nice fast reply there MisSTrouble! Did you build out a custom adapter with check valve on your own or did you use WOOSh's?

Thanks,
Jm0b

 

[MisSTrouble]

Cool that is all good to know... nice fast reply there MisSTrouble! Did you build out a custom adapter with check valve on your own or did you use WOOSh's?

Thanks,
Jm0b

I custom made mine roughly a year ago, before Whoosh was on the forum. It's all in the check valve, and Ron has come up with a quality setup. I highly recommend it. IF by some wild chance you still throw a code, take off the check valve and pour a little alcohol through it to remove any gunk.

 

[jm0bius]

Quick Update: Talked to MAP and they verified/acknowledged that customers were indeed having issues with their adapters! Also they even offered a 45 dollar refund for the cost of Whoosh's adapter which was fantastic! Great honesty from those folks so I highly recommend business with them.

Will update in a week or so with the Whoosh install

-Jm0B

 

[jm0bius]

Hey all, update here. Got my whoosh adapter in the mail pretty quick and installed even quicker. Due to the location of the connection port on my MAP intake I decided to wrap the whoosh adapter around the (Hot!) radiator hose to prevent kinking. I really don't expect any issues but if something happens then I will most likely end up trimming the tubing to fit exactly. Just didn't feel like hacking away at my new adapter piece right away Anyway I installed it and let the car run for a bit, then plugged in my OBD2 reader and bingo, 0 codes to speak of! Happy so far... attached a pic of how I ghetto routed the hose.

Anyway thanks for the help and feedback to those in the thread and especially to Whoosh.

 

[jmrtsus]

yes it is going to affect something - no check engine light
If I told you how many of these kits were out there right now being used you probably wouldn't believe me lol

Ron, I think he had a valid question and you blew him off. Do you know what the purpose was for the connection you are blocking off? Just because you have encouraged a number of people to do it does not answer the question. I just returned my Mishimoto POS and want to replace it and use your product but not without understanding it first. We can disconnect an oil pressure sensor to clear a light but does that mean it is good for the car? Get my point?

Ford spent lots of money to change the stock intake hose connections on the 2016. Was it because of new laws, safety, reliability, drivability? I and I am sure many others will not block it off without knowing why it is there. I don't think it is there to turn on the CEL for grins. You need to tell the customers of any legal and warranty issues your product may cause and take questions seriously. Take a look at other vendors disclaimers for examples. If indeed this device does not meet these standards consider making one that does incorporate that line, just because Mishi could not make it work even with the so called "fixed" adapter does not mean you can't! I appreciate your device and efforts but we need more info out here Ron. I live in an area where we are emission tested and I value my warranty. Thanks!

 

[MisSTrouble]

Ron, I think he had a valid question and you blew him off. Do you know what the purpose was for the connection you are blocking off? Just because you have encouraged a number of people to do it does not answer the question. I just returned my Mishimoto POS and want to replace it and use your product but not without understanding it first. We can disconnect an oil pressure sensor to clear a light but does that mean it is good for the car? Get my point?

Ford spent lots of money to change the stock intake hose connections on the 2016. Was it because of new laws, safety, reliability, drivability? I and I am sure many others will not block it off without knowing why it is there. I don't think it is there to turn on the CEL for grins. You need to tell the customers of any legal and warranty issues your product may cause and take questions seriously. Take a look at other vendors disclaimers for examples. If indeed this device does not meet these standards consider making one that does incorporate that line, just because Mishi could not make it work even with the so called "fixed" adapter does not mean you can't! I appreciate your device and efforts but we need more info out here Ron. I live in an area where we are emission tested and I value my warranty. Thanks!

I hope I don't come off sounding like an ass, because I really don't mean to, but I'd like to address some of your concerns. This has been said elsewhere on this forum in many different ways, but if you're worried that modifying your car will void your warranty or cause you to fail emissions then you probably shouldn't modify your car at all. Or at least wait until the warranty expires. You're somewhat protected under the M-MWA, but there's a lot of grey there. If you're worried about it, then don't do it. Any 2016 FiST that you install an intake on WILL throw and evap purge canister emissions CEL without an adapter.

Getting something 50 State emissions legal or CARB certified costs money and time. Ron put this together to help out frustrated people that were getting CEL's. From what he said, it was a one time only production run, so it wouldn't make sense to pursue getting it certified.

As for the boost bleed line that was eliminated, it's not new to the 2016s. Previous year model FiSTs have it as well, and I think it's been pretty much covered before on a previous thread. If you do a forum search for something like "boost bleed/purge line" it may have more info for you. People have run with that line blocked off for years without issue, but as always, I encourage you to read up on it.

About Ron's attitude, well, he can answer that better than I. However I seriously doubt he was meaning to be condescending or be an ass. He's never been anything but a pleasure to deal with, at least for my part.

 

[jmrtsus]

I hope I don't come off sounding like an ass, because I really don't mean to, but I'd like to address some of your concerns. This has been said elsewhere on this forum in many different ways, but if you're worried that modifying your car will void your warranty or cause you to fail emissions then you probably shouldn't modify your car at all. Or at least wait until the warranty expires. You're somewhat protected under the M-MWA, but there's a lot of grey there. If you're worried about it, then don't do it. Any 2016 FiST that you install an intake on WILL throw and evap purge canister emissions CEL without an adapter.

Getting something 50 State emissions legal or CARB certified costs money and time. Ron put this together to help out frustrated people that were getting CEL's. From what he said, it was a one time only production run, so it wouldn't make sense to pursue getting it certified.

As for the boost bleed line that was eliminated, it's not new to the 2016s. Previous year model FiSTs have it as well, and I think it's been pretty much covered before on a previous thread. If you do a forum search for something like "boost bleed/purge line" it may have more info for you. People have run with that line blocked off for years without issue, but as always, I encourage you to read up on it.

About Ron's attitude, well, he can answer that better than I. However I seriously doubt he was meaning to be condescending or be an ass. He's never been anything but a pleasure to deal with, at least for my part.

You don't sound like an ass, I just want info and you are trying to help a fellow member and that is a positive. I am not trying to attack him but like the other poster get info to help make a buying decision.

.....You do not need to get anything certified unless it alters the functionality of the car's emission controls in the 49 states, can't speak for Cali and CARB. You are free to dress up your hoses and and lines just like choosing an exhaust or oil/air filter. They do not change the functionality of the emissions. And to be legally covered "off road use only" will do it on his site. Some people on our forum don't understand that you can make mods to your car that are legal and warranty friendly, I have been doing it for 40 years and never had issues with dealers or our recently enacted inspections. If he incorporated that line rather than block it off we would have zero warranty concerns. My concerns are that so far nobody can seem to make an adapter the works without blocking this line. It appears Mountune backed off on the 2016 intake that they said last spring the were working on, Mishi has tried twice to make theirs work and it still throws codes. I simply asked if if he could make one that worked and since he is advocating blocking the line I felt he would know and be able to explain what he was doing and why. As long as all the hoses are connected properly to the intake then like your OCC or Symposer delete it will have no effect on your warranty unless it fails and causes an engine failure.

To me it should be an easy explanation as to why this device blocks the line rather than routes it to the intake so it should not be an problem explaining why, other than "it turns off the CEL". If it is a cost thing I would be more that willing to pay for a fully functional device rather than roll the dice when tested or removing it all for any service work. Mishi can't seem to make it work with their leaky "octopus" as even the fixed ones still throw a code. It appears that the only company that can make it work correctly is Ford at this point. Thanks for your input, I did read the info you referred to on several forums prior to trying to find out from Ron. Seem the opinions of blocking it off go from funny smells to better throttle response, throws codes and the mysterious increased boost/power! From all the loss in a 3/8 inch line boost bleed? So I am still mystified......

 

[MisSTrouble]

You don't sound like an ass, I just want info and you are trying to help a fellow member and that is a positive. I am not trying to attack him but like the other poster get info to help make a buying decision.

.....You do not need to get anything certified unless it alters the functionality of the car's emission controls in the 49 states, can't speak for Cali and CARB. You are free to dress up your hoses and and lines just like choosing an exhaust or oil/air filter. They do not change the functionality of the emissions. And to be legally covered "off road use only" will do it on his site. Some people on our forum don't understand that you can make mods to your car that are legal and warranty friendly, I have been doing it for 40 years and never had issues with dealers or our recently enacted inspections. If he incorporated that line rather than block it off we would have zero warranty concerns. My concerns are that so far nobody can seem to make an adapter the works without blocking this line. It appears Mountune backed off on the 2016 intake that they said last spring the were working on, Mishi has tried twice to make theirs work and it still throws codes. I simply asked if if he could make one that worked and since he is advocating blocking the line I felt he would know and be able to explain what he was doing and why. As long as all the hoses are connected properly to the intake then like your OCC or Symposer delete it will have no effect on your warranty unless it fails and causes an engine failure.

To me it should be an easy explanation as to why this device blocks the line rather than routes it to the intake so it should not be an problem explaining why, other than "it turns off the CEL". If it is a cost thing I would be more that willing to pay for a fully functional device rather than roll the dice when tested or removing it all for any service work. Mishi can't seem to make it work with their leaky "octopus" as even the fixed ones still throw a code. It appears that the only company that can make it work correctly is Ford at this point. Thanks for your input, I did read the info you referred to on several forums prior to trying to find out from Ron. Seem the opinions of blocking it off go from funny smells to better throttle response, throws codes and the mysterious increased boost/power! From all the loss in a 3/8 inch line boost bleed? So I am still mystified......

My theory on this (I'm no engineer) is that the boost bleed line works to effectively "pull" the check valve open as the air rushes past, helping to evacuate the gases. Other than that, I can see no reason for its presence. The reason that everybody tends to throw codes on Mishi's or MAP's setups is that they cheaped out on the check valve, it sticks closed, and the pull of the aftermarket intake isn't strong enough to open the check valve. Add the complication that it'll be extremely difficult to make an exact copy of Ford's "dual port" system, and who knows? The boost bleed line may now actually be forcing the check valve closed instead of open. Maybe that's why eliminating the bleed line and using a high quality check valve that doesn't tend to stick closed works better. Maybe just a better quality check valve is all one needs to run the full setup, bleed line and all. Again, this is only my theory.

As for benefits, I can only speak for myself, but other than the feeling some people get of "I did a thing", I really don't think there's any difference in performance. I'm calling placebo effect on this one.

 

[jmrtsus]

My theory on this (I'm no engineer) is that the boost bleed line works to effectively "pull" the check valve open as the air rushes past, helping to evacuate the gases. Other than that, I can see no reason for its presence. The reason that everybody tends to throw codes on Mishi's or MAP's setups is that they cheaped out on the check valve, it sticks closed, and the pull of the aftermarket intake isn't strong enough to open the check valve. Add the complication that it'll be extremely difficult to make an exact copy of Ford's "dual port" system, and who knows? The boost bleed line may now actually be forcing the check valve closed instead of open. Maybe that's why eliminating the bleed line and using a high quality check valve that doesn't tend to stick closed works better. Maybe just a better quality check valve is all one needs to run the full setup, bleed line and all. Again, this is only my theory.

As for benefits, I can only speak for myself, but other than the feeling some people get of "I did a thing", I really don't think there's any difference in performance. I'm calling placebo effect on this one.

I notice that the assembly glued to our stock intake has a FOMOCO part number.......I wonder if it can be purchased separately from Ford? My pet theory is the increased air flow but larger volume in the intake causes a lower level of vacuum due to slower moving air. My experience with one way valves are the are designed to open and close at a certain pressure/vacuum level and I suspect the Ford assembly is more sensitive than what Mishi tries to use. I can reset my code and drive easy all day but one hard 3rd gear pull and it is back.

 

[blakewillingham]

Ron, I think he had a valid question and you blew him off. Do you know what the purpose was for the connection you are blocking off? Just because you have encouraged a number of people to do it does not answer the question. I just returned my Mishimoto POS and want to replace it and use your product but not without understanding it first. We can disconnect an oil pressure sensor to clear a light but does that mean it is good for the car? Get my point?

Ford spent lots of money to change the stock intake hose connections on the 2016. Was it because of new laws, safety, reliability, drivability? I and I am sure many others will not block it off without knowing why it is there. I don't think it is there to turn on the CEL for grins. You need to tell the customers of any legal and warranty issues your product may cause and take questions seriously. Take a look at other vendors disclaimers for examples. If indeed this device does not meet these standards consider making one that does incorporate that line, just because Mishi could not make it work even with the so called "fixed" adapter does not mean you can't! I appreciate your device and efforts but we need more info out here Ron. I live in an area where we are emission tested and I value my warranty. Thanks!

Yeah I am curious on what it is I am going to be removing and how it is going to effect the vehicle. You can "fix" something but that doesn't mean it's actually fixed. So what exactly does this hose that we are removing do?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[spoon]

Personally I don't like the idea of just blocking something off. That to me screams hackjob. Unless you're at a race track.

I'm with [MENTION=2319]jmrtsus[/MENTION]. I'd like to know exactly what it does, so that I can make my own decision of whether the part is good for my intended purpose or not. Every part I have on my car I like to understand how it works, how it improves performance over other similar parts, and what negative impacts if any the new part might have on runnability and reliability.

Does it provide a reference to another component which uses it to run reliably in which case I might consider not wanting to block it off for minimal HP gains, or does it simply just vent back to the muffler bearing in which case I wouldn't care.. or what? It may not be significant to some people, and 100 other people may have it installed, I still desire to understand.


No one ever argued that too much information is a bad thing.