ARP Motor Mount Bolt Install from Whoosh

[pirite]

So as some of you may know, the one main bolt in the passenger side motor mount has been known to break.
ron@whoosh has been awesome enough to carry an upgraded bolt from ARP so you can romp through the gears and no longer worry about this issue.

And HERE is where you can pick one up for your own car!

Here's what's getting installed:

Step one is going to be the same as just about anything else you do under the hood of this car, remove the passenger side headlight. Not 100% needed but makes things much easier.

Next remove the small air vent line from the degass camber and then give it a wiggle up and move the degass chamber out of the way

This gives you a pretty straight shot (with an extension) to get the mount out of the car

Before you go any farther, get out your jack and a piece of wood, support the motor on that side by putting it under the oil pan.
DO NOT put excessive pressure on the oil pan, all it has to do is make contact with the oil pan to support the motor.

The three nuts on the motor side are an 18mm, the three bolts on the frame side are 16mm.
With those removed, pull the mount out. There's tons of room to do so.

This next step is important. Get a 21mm wrench in between the top and bottom of the mount, and use an 18mm socket on a ratchet and remove the old bolt.
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN AND MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE WRENCH TO AVOID DESTROYING YOUR MOUNT
You'll also want to make a mark or two on the two sections of the mount for alignment - we'll get to that later.

Here's what you're going to see once you have it apart. As you can see there's no key ways or notches to align the top and bottom section of the mount, that's where those marks you made earlier will come into play.

Get your new ARP bolt and apply some blue thread lock to it.

Using the wrench to hold the bottom section of the mount grab your torque wrench and tighten the new bolt to 50 ft-lbs making sure to line up your marks you made previously before disassembling the mount.
The new bolt is 14mm.
Having someone help hold the wrench while torquing the bolt is a huge help.

Get the mount back in the car, start the nuts and bolts for the mount by hand. Lift the motor up slightly with the jack.
Start by torquing the three nuts on the motor side to 59 ft-lbs.
(also a note. using an extension with a torque wrench does change the torque you're putting out. the wrench i'm using has an option to put in the length of the extension and it does the math for me. just keep that in mind when doing these next two steps.)

Lower the jack and let the mount hold the weight of the motor.
Torque the frame side mount bolts to 35 ft-lbs.

Get your degass chamber slid back in place, and the air vent line clipped back in.
Top back off with 50/50 ford orange coolant and distilled water if you lost any.

Reinstall your headlight, close the hood and you're now all set to go hoon through the gears without having to worry about that bolt breaking on you!

 

[maestromaestro]

On behalf of the community - thanks! (Disclaimer - I'm in no way authorized to speak on behalf of the community. What is a community anyway??)

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[ron@whoosh]

On behalf of the community - thanks! (Disclaimer - I'm in no way authorized to speak on behalf of the community. What is a community anyway??)

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

you can speak for the group
so many people that view these posts and how-tos that say nothing....they are very well done

thank you pirite, excellent work as usual !

 

[cxwrench]

Awesome post! Nice torque wrench too. I have a close friend that's a Snap-On dealer and he's been trying to get me to buy one of those for a while.

 

[koozy]

I guess you were right [MENTION=5976]ron@whoosh[/MENTION].

me: you think someone is going to go the trouble?

Ron: If you provide instructions they will.

LOL

 

[ron@whoosh]

I guess you were right [MENTION=5976]ron@whoosh[/MENTION].

me: you think someone is going to go the trouble?

Ron: If you provide instructions they will.

LOL

I'm thankful for the spec man, thank you.
and for the great write ups from Pirite

great work for the group!

 

[pirite]

I'm thankful for the spec man, thank you.
and for the great write ups from Pirite

great work for the group!

eh...
I do what i can with what i have available... which happens to be an entire shop with 4 lifts and an alignment rack

 

[dailybean]

OP idk if you are still around but props to you for the right up. I’ll be doing this tonight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ron@whoosh]

OP idk if you are still around but props to you for the right up. I’ll be doing this tonight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

he is
a few more parts going his direction as well
stay tuned

 

[alexrex20]

I just installed the ARP bolt today. Easy as pie. You do not need to disconnect any hoses from the reservoir tank.

On a side note, I got the powerflex motor mount insert and it does not fit my motor mount. I did not install it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[koozy]

I probably would've just taken a dremmel to it and opened it up. its just a piece of rubber...

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I just installed the ARP bolt today. Easy as pie. You do not need to disconnect any hoses from the reservoir tank.

On a side note, I got the powerflex motor mount insert and it does not fit my motor mount. I did not install it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Is it just me? Or does it seem silly that they cut the urethane and use the rubber band to hold it together? Why not just make it one solid piece and just put the mount back together!

 

[green_henry]

On a side note, I got the powerflex motor mount insert and it does not fit my motor mount. I did not install it.

What year is your FiST?

Is it just me? Or does it seem silly that they cut the urethane and use the rubber band to hold it together? Why not just make it one solid piece and just put the mount back together!

+1 If the rubber mount is solid, why would the urethane be different?

 

[koozy]

Is it just me? Or does it seem silly that they cut the urethane and use the rubber band to hold it together? Why not just make it one solid piece and just put the mount back together!

If you were to take one apart you'd know why. It's impossible to torque the center bolt with the rubbers blocking the way of a wrench holding it while torquing down the center bolt. The insert is not intending to be installed like depicted above with the mount taken apart. He took it apart to install a new ARP bolt. The insert can only be installed with the center bolt already installed and torqued down, hence why it has to slip in.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

If you were to take one apart you'd know why. It's impossible to torque the center bolt with the rubbers blocking the way of a wrench holding it while torquing down the center bolt. The insert is not intending to be installed like depicted above with the mount taken apart. He took it apart to install a new ARP bolt. The insert can only be installed with the center bolt already installed and torqued down, hence why it has to slip in.

Why not make the insert just like the factory style one a shown in the picture?

 

[koozy]

Why not make the insert just like the factory style one a shown in the picture?

Because it's impossible to torque the center bolt with a thicker rubber insert blocking the way of a wrench holding it while torquing down the center bolt. You can barely get a wrench in there as it is.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

So as some of you may know, the one main bolt in the passenger side motor mount has been known to break.
ron@whoosh has been awesome enough to carry an upgraded bolt from ARP so you can romp through the gears and no longer worry about this issue.

And HERE is where you can pick one up for your own car!

Here's what's getting installed:

Step one is going to be the same as just about anything else you do under the hood of this car, remove the passenger side headlight. Not 100% needed but makes things much easier.

Next remove the small air vent line from the degass camber and then give it a wiggle up and move the degass chamber out of the way

This gives you a pretty straight shot (with an extension) to get the mount out of the car

Before you go any farther, get out your jack and a piece of wood, support the motor on that side by putting it under the oil pan.
DO NOT put excessive pressure on the oil pan, all it has to do is make contact with the oil pan to support the motor.

The three nuts on the motor side are an 18mm, the three bolts on the frame side are 16mm.
With those removed, pull the mount out. There's tons of room to do so.

This next step is important. Get a 21mm wrench in between the top and bottom of the mount, and use an 18mm socket on a ratchet and remove the old bolt.
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN AND MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE WRENCH TO AVOID DESTROYING YOUR MOUNT
You'll also want to make a mark or two on the two sections of the mount for alignment - we'll get to that later.

Here's what you're going to see once you have it apart. As you can see there's no key ways or notches to align the top and bottom section of the mount, that's where those marks you made earlier will come into play.

Get your new ARP bolt and apply some blue thread lock to it.

Using the wrench to hold the bottom section of the mount grab your torque wrench and tighten the new bolt to 50 ft-lbs making sure to line up your marks you made previously before disassembling the mount.
The new bolt is 14mm.
Having someone help hold the wrench while torquing the bolt is a huge help.

Get the mount back in the car, start the nuts and bolts for the mount by hand. Lift the motor up slightly with the jack.
Start by torquing the three nuts on the motor side to 59 ft-lbs.
(also a note. using an extension with a torque wrench does change the torque you're putting out. the wrench i'm using has an option to put in the length of the extension and it does the math for me. just keep that in mind when doing these next two steps.)

Lower the jack and let the mount hold the weight of the motor.
Torque the frame side mount bolts to 35 ft-lbs.

Get your degass chamber slid back in place, and the air vent line clipped back in.
Top back off with 50/50 ford orange coolant and distilled water if you lost any.

Reinstall your headlight, close the hood and you're now all set to go hoon through the gears without having to worry about that bolt breaking on you!

So you cant hold the mount while installing the Bolt? But clearly in the "How to" he does this with a 21mm wrench while utilizing the Torque wrench to get it to correct Torque spec.

 

[koozy]

Here's some photos lifted from the Powerflex insert thread that may help. https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/14411-Powerflex-Motor-Mount-Inserts

 

[koozy]

So you cant hold the mount while installing the Bolt? But clearly in the "How to" he does this with a 21mm wrench while utilizing the Torque wrench to get it to correct Torque spec.

see here in this image as he takes apart the mount to install an ARP center bolt. There's a wrench holding things together while there's a ratchet on the center bolt. Now imagine once the Powerflex insert is installed or one that is just as thick as the OE plus Powerflex combined, you can longer use a wrench because there's no space for it. This is why they made the insert a slip-in item.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Ill put money on it that a Snap-on tappet thin wrench 21mm would be good to go and utilizing a lube whether its silicone or even something like dielectric grease to ease it out after....But then again that's just me. I do see now what your talking about though....

Even these cheapies would work great 1/8 thick


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